double02's Xanga

Friday, July 24, 2009

Fri, 24 Jul 2009 02:26:12 GMT

My M20-2002 for sale!!

I'll setup some pics later, but for now, here's most of the details of the car as of today..

1974 BMW 2002

asking $12,000

Purchased in 2002 pretty much stock except for new paint, a huge muffler, and lowered onto the bumpstops with cut ST springs. I drove it with two versions of the M10 for 2 years and then decided to clean out and paint the engine bay. After the motor was out, I decided what the hell and did the M20 swap while I was at it. After attaining a second car as a daily driver, the '02 turned towards the direction of just a weekend/HPDE car. I built the motor as a 210hp N/A motor able to go to turbo once everything was sorted. As it sits, it is pretty much ready for the track, but I'm too chicken to beat it up and have to pay for repairs with a new baby on the way. It could be turned back into a street car with very little work and I have used it to commute when my daily car was in repair without a problem. it can be tame although a little loud. It will not, however, stand up to too much rain! the wipers are fixed right now, and the hood has two gaping holes. Ive driven it in the rain, but it needs a shitload of Rain-x!
I adjusted the seat mounting so the seat position is further back. It'd be hard for a shorter person to drive it without some kind of mod to the rails or mounting again but we could work something out to accommodate.

Engine:
1987 BMW M20 (325i) bored/stroked
stock head recut and line-honed
172deg I.E. regrind cam
oversized eccentrics
new valves, seals, guides, and springs
block bored, honed, and decked
Ross forged pistons 9.75:1-CR (I.E. spec)
Eta 81mm crank-honed
new crank and rod bearings
all magnafluxed
final displacement 2785cc
MSDS shorty headers
magnaflow 2.5" custom exhaust
about 5k miles on the whole thing
RX-7 oil cooler (easy to swap out if it's not your thing)
polished intake manifold and valve cover
then sanded for brushed look

cooling:
AFCO Scirocco aluminum radiator
AFCO aluminum expansion tank
new t-stat
12" Summit pusher fan (on all the time til fan control installed)

engine management/fuel:
Megasquirt-I running MSNS-extra w/spark
V2.2 board
relay board
fan-control circuit (not installed yet)
Innovative wide-band O2 sensor/controller
MSD-6A and Blaster-SS coil
IE plug wires/NGK plugs
timing is set conservatively (dyno time should yield ~15% more hp)
new OE 318IS fuel pump
dynoed 19lb injectors
Fram fuel filter

Drivetrain:
euro E21 323i 5spd OD transmission
Exedy clutch/pres. plate (stage1-spec to hopefully save the diff)
new clutch slave
12lb flywheel
shortened/balanced driveshaft
6-bolt guibo
3.91:1 LSD (loud output bearings)
new wheel bearings front/back
new solid poly diff mounts

front suspension:
325lb coils
shortened strut housings
IE rabbit bilstein inserts
GC adjustable perches
GC adjustable camber/castor plates
new OE balljoints
IE swaybar
all poly bushings

rear suspension:
IE stg II springs (325lb) -1coil cut
Bilstein sport dampers
19mm 'blue' swaybar
2dot OE spring pads
solid subframe mounts (flipped to correct camber)

curb weight: 2212 lbs w/half tank of gas
weight dist:53/47(f/r)

steering:
CR steering box
new center rod
new steering links
new ball joints

brakes:
front-
IE Volvo upgrade
new brembo rotors
Mintex sport pads
SS braided lines
new OE master cylinder

rear-
stock drums
new performance shoes
new cylinders
new drums
SS braided lines
Tilton prop valve (for future disc upgrade)
TEP battery brace (welded in)

interior:
Corbeau sport seats
Schroth harnesses
Autopower half cage
VDO instruments-
oil pres.
water temp
fuel level
batt V
tach (w/shift light)
speedo (w/digital sender)
Autometer fuel pres gauge (not hooked up)
Innovative analog AFR gauge
Sparco pedal covers
Personal wood steering wheel
NRG quick release
new trunk boards covered in vinyl
Optima redtop batt in trunk
floors patched and sealed. nomo rust.
crack-free dash

Exterior:
10-year old Malaga(ish) paint
Ebay H4 headlights
early bumpers
IE FRP hood (mod'd for cooling)
Zender trunk spoiler
shaved reflectors and lower mouldings
IE front airdam.
*i need to take new ext pics as Ive removed a bunch of stickers and some yellow headlight covers that were making me sick.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/double02/3611294987_2951f3e991-1.jpg[/IMG]
bad:
-leaks oil from rear main seal (even with new seals)
drips onto exhaust sometimes. few drips after parking.
*Ill be adding to this as I nitpick, but this is the top of my shitlist right now, and without a hoist at this time I just deal w/it.

just so you know:
no sound deadening=loud
Quick Ratio steering box=hard to steer at slow speeds
stroked M20=non green
no radio, heater, or A/C=no wife
1974=no smog

email me with ANY questions and/or concerns. even if you're not interested in buying, it may help this ad be more correct/effective.
there's stuff im forgetting buy I'm busy as hell right now and this list took me 3 days.
THANKS FOR READING,

-Charley
(seven one four)357-3212
cboy at operamail dot com

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Sat, 11 Jul 2009 00:37:38 GMT

Sadly, this project has come to an end and the M20-02 is for sale. Upside is.. there's something cooking in the oven! If you're interested, email me: cboy at operamail.com

I'll be posting details soon.

expurt photoes by Rodney Wills and Collin Cocores. Thanks guys!

out cold.. sorta

Tue, 02 Jun 2009 22:19:13 GMT

Coolant system plumbing is done finally.. didn't even waste too much silicone hose hehehe. Took me a few days to get the parts ordered, but they were shipped fast. RockAuto sent me a fuel pump without the wiring harness, so I had to solder the wires.. so after the AAA flatbed dropped the car back off at home, I found that the wiring failed! WTF. the pump was fine. So I resoldered them and used some different insulation and it works again, but I'm still not sure what went wrong on the previous wires. owell

The clear hose is just temporary until I find an overflow bottle and a place to mount it. I had to change the front hood pin location, so I took the opportunity to switch to captured torsion pins. Shitty thing is, that at about 50 mph, the thin IE hood starts lifting in the middle and gulping in more air.. might have to add a 5th pin. I really dont want to add extra glass the middle.

I added this adapter I found from moroso to tap into for the bleed line. Works perfect, it's a reducer and is tapped.. although it was meant to be a bottom tube drain. I saved the petcock. Oh.. and I had to make a trip to the pick-ur-junk for some BMW hose clamps..

and I forgot, i moved the intake air temp sensor from the throttle body to the back of the intake plenum. It was protruding into the worst spot on the intake, I don't know why I did that other than being lazy. I guess I do know.

from here:

to here:

I moved the MAP sensor vac input from here to just behind the butterfly.. a better spot I think.

and then I mounted this!

..always wanted one.

Oh, and the car still runs a little warm? but nothing like before. Now it'll level off @ 180deg and it'd probably take 20min idling to get to 200deg, but I'm gonna sum that up to poor idle tuning. Right now it idles @ ~1100rpm.

next time I'll be lowering this 4x4 a touch and doing a little idle tuning.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Tue, 19 May 2009 14:14:01 GMT

I forgot that we weighed the car..

Cool It Now

Mon, 18 May 2009 23:31:33 GMT

Poor little 02 has been sitting in the garage for almost a year now waiting for a new cooling system and it's finally close to completion. It was hard to find a radiator in the scirrocco size but thx to Canadamatt, I found an AFCO unit that fit.. umm.. with a little massaging. It has a much thicker, double-row, aluminum core. I'm also adding an expansion tank that will feed into the H2O pump and plumb a bleed line to the top radiator hose. Hopefully, this will keep the air in the expansion tank and not in the hoses near the temp sensor.

First off, the core is so much thicker that I had to cut the two vertical hood hinge supports near the bottom and weld in reliefs so that the bottom of the rad could be moved away from the crank pulley. Since they don't really support much anymore, I drilled some holes in them to maybe help in air flow to the core. You can see the reliefs that I welded in below the second hole down.

Then I welded in some lower mounts out of box steel and flat stock. Readers have failed to make donations to my paypal account and therefore, I have no gas/regulator for my MIG. My welds look like crap because of you. I used some rubber isolation mounts here, but you can't really see them in the pic. I used Zero-Rust to seal.. I like it cuz it brushes on and I'm lazy but still want to party.

The top mounts (just comforting huggers really) were just cut, bend, drill, grind, paint, and apply weather stripping affairs.

..as you can see, I need to make new hood pinnings somehow. That'll leave two, cool, scar-like holes in my FRP hood but it'll allow me to move to captured-style hood pins which I should have done in the first place.

The bottom tube on the rad posed a problem since it was feeding directly into.. somewhere it shouldn't be. So, a great fabricator friend of mine waved his magic wand over it and viola! 90deg bend right out the gate! For this I am grateful, so go buy his shit! http://www.battleversion.com/

The expansion tank needs to be the high point of the system to collect air so I mounted it as high as possible without having the convenience of fillling it without removing the hood. I tapped out the bottom to take a larger elbow that way it doesn't take an hour to fill the system. No, that's not the hose I'm going to use for the bleed line.

Now, I'm just working on getting new plumbing ordered without contributing too much to the 'extras' bin. I'll be back.

More trim than Fillmore Slim

Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:13:13 GMT

All right! ok! yahh... so.. uh. long time, I know, but gettin to work on the '02 isn't exactly easy-bake-oven these days. So, I've been working on gathering the rest of the waistline trim needed and seeing how feasible it is to attatch a decent set on a small budget. Anyone who's unfortunate enough to have a degenerate or (like me) imaginable set of this trim probably knows what a set will set you back if you buy re-pops.. over $300 including clips. SO, if you're like me and have more time than money, I'm here to tell you.. it can be done for under $60 dammit! but there are downsides of course. like sore throats from aluminum dust inhalation and other minor health issues.

1. take a wide putty knife, pry bar, and small open end wrench set (can't recall if it's 6mm or 7mm but it's small) to your local Pick-and-Pullery.

2. Look for any year 2002. If you find none, return to step #1 until you do.

3. Remove as many trim pieces as you can find. make sure you remove any small nuts from behind the trim before using the putty knife to pry them off. they're real easy to bend. I kept track of which pieces I had using a box drawing on paper. (Don't forget the corner collars (the small joint pieces). You need a full set without cracks, tears, holes, anything worse than dents basically. I paid $15 all together for a set and I have doubles of a few pieces.

4. buy these tools. if you have an anvil or vise with a flat pad, i wouldnt waste the money on the small anvil. you wont be able to work the trim on the fingers of the anvil anyhow. round off the ends of a small chisel and round punch and smooth them as much as you can. the flat file is a must.. the removable tip hammer in the back, not so much.

5. Clean the trim thoroughly and get to hammering out the dents. The most important thing to remember is that the aluminum is thin and stretches easily so tap a little at a time. You do not want to go too far and then have to tap from the other side. the sharpie and flat file come in hand here. Mark the dent from the outside, taparoo, then use the file length-wise, at a 45deg angle or so and go over the work area. the marker will show you the low spots. repeat, but keep the filing at a minimum for obvious reasons.

6. I used 120 grit sand paper and a foam pad to sand down the small imperfections. Use the light and marker to show you the way.

7. glass beads. I used our blastbox at work using glass beads to remove the factory anodizing/clearcoat.

8. I used the 120 grit sand paper again to bring the trim to a uniform luster. time consuming? hell yes. In my case I decided to stay @ 120 grit but you could work your way down to a polish with nothing but more paper and elbow grease.

9. Use a good quality clearcoat. I did not.

10. Attatch. This is where you can make or break the budget. I'm sure the stainless fastener kits out there are great, but I bought a set from I BavAuto and it includes everything you need for $35 and the parts are zinc/cad plated so they should last at least as long as it'll take me to fireball the car.

viola!

Sure, it's nots as shiny and cool as a new set, but with a good polishing and good clearcoat it'd be BETTER than new. The important thing here is that it all costed less than ONE new piece of new re-popped trim.

Friday, November 23, 2007

Fri, 23 Nov 2007 00:51:34 GMT

after dyno tuning and oil pan gasket replacement, project #1 (aka the 2002) will be up for sale. If you are painfully curious, or actually interested in taking on this project, feel free to contact me or leave your info in the comments section. I say 'project' because this car can always be made to be better, and those with fear need not apply. muahahahaha......ha..

also, this blog will continue with renewed enthusiasm and focused direction. if not on the topic of dismembering my E30 in the pursuit of the sweet MPG nectar, then on how to avoid creating entries in a blog.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:26:40 GMT

Yes, yes xangaboys progress is slow.. but feel good because updates are slower. Therefore things are happening much faster than you can keep up mr. blog. yes, I dwell in the real world and you 1's and 0's sit on the edge of your front-side busses waiting for my button pecking. peck at you I will.

ya ya ya. Ive been rallying the m20 kid around the socal rubble briskly to shake out all the mistakes i've made in the past few years. most of these can be dealt with for basic transportation purposes, but projects are finally getting to the slimmer of the pickings. the front suspension is next on my mental agenda. the problem is plain 'ol not enough stroke. Im not the type that likes to hide part of my rim behind the fenders on this type of car so the ride height I picked seemed ok. the front LCAs are relatively horizontal with the pavement and the spring rate is currently 325lb 2.5"ID 8" long linear. This was supposed to be 375lb but stupid me trusted Ground Control (yah I said it) to provide me with the right rate and just installed it. stupid me. Stupid also did not take a careful look at the design of the front adjustable camber plates from the same company. long story short, the cup radius is too large where the top spring hat rests against the camber plate causing the spring perch to rock as the strut moves. The movement isnt very great and, after a friend gave me a couple spacers which should eliminate any interference againgst the damper piston, it should work just fine. (this same friend warned me that it was a piece of crap but I doubt he realized the stench of this crap) BUT, the fact still stands that it's a bad design by a well known and trusted company. or maybe im just a whiney bitch.
see the gap?(the top plate rotates on a spherical bearing below the nut):

that aside, the goal of the past 2 wks was to shorten two strut housings I had aside, weld on some collars, paint, and install on the car using VW Rabbit Bilstein inserts, and my GC coilovers. as you didnt guess, this took weeks because of some unforeseen obstacles such as: procuring a welder, grinder (Dewalt bitches), spacer, pipe cutter, arguing with GC tech support, and crying.

thank you Jeff Ireland for being so thorough in your directions (but after doing it, I'd do it different next time) and providing quality products.

two cuts, grind down the lip from cutting to slide over IE collar (yah, the ID is that perfect), insert strut, coilover sleeve, gland nut, adjustments, and then weld like you're Helen Keller:

OK, so it took me a while to get the machine setting right and run a good bead.. hahaha the grinder took care of the rest.

then out pops one of these

the purpose is the be able to use more of the suspension stroke and maintain about a 2" lowering. I.E. the thing was bottoming out everywhere, even with these springs.

lastly i needed to make better exhaust bracket. This is my proudest creation. To be able to take an out of service part, a castaway if you will, and return him back to duty in another more honorable form makes me proud to be an american.. some how.
I give you.. the automatic-brake-pushrod turned bracket-de-exhausto:

yah, im tired and typing with a mexican accent. good nite

next: "Leaks!"...or: "Why Doesnt My Wrench Fit in There!?"

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Wed, 12 Sep 2007 00:15:39 GMT

leaks: yes

apparently coming from the gearbox output area. ive come to the conclusion that this area is the anus of the vehicle. looks like a paper seal, should be easy to replace.

plugs: good

if not a lotta rich. the O2 sensor signal is really irratic and i'm not sure why yet. hopefully its a loose ground. unhopefully its fouled from running too rich.

interesting problem occured while traveling at about 70mph in the pitch black area of the construction zone that is the 22W fwy. vroooooooom..POP...lights out..sputter sputter..soft sound of tires rolling and bearings whining. with cel phone lighting the way (what DONT you do Samsung), I found the 30A(!) main fuse popped..wtf? which of course killed everything including the ECU. looked through my toolbag and found only 20As so I made a fuse out of a cotter pin and reconnected the ground. POP..disconnect ground. this time, I saw a flash from the fan switch i had rigged up temporarily. 8amp fan, 20amp switch. the math seems easy until you factor in the manufacturers name: MIC (maked in china). the slider piece inside melted, which connected 12V to the body of the switch which was contacting ground. time to wire up that relay and MS fan control.

Saturday, September 01, 2007

Sat, 01 Sep 2007 15:07:39 GMT

New budget effective until further notice: one tank of gas per month.

tuning is getting better, because im getting better at it. still need to take it to a pro to figure out this loping idle problem. cant find a vac leak. datalog has left me flacid.
todo:
once over (plugs, leak checks, bleed cooling sys, clean windows)