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double02
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Country: United States
State: California
Metro: Orange County
Birthday: 3/29/1979
Gender: Male
Interests: taking things apart, cleaning them, putting them back together, searching for the ultimate wheels, drawing, p-shopping, using Acid, writing crap on websites that no one will visit, and storming the internet in a random direction.
Expertise: nerdery, replacing bushings, putting sparkplugs in wrong, building model cars, putting stickers on things, calling people at the wrong time, washing cars, mowing grass, attempting to fix various crap.. etc. etc..
Occupation: Unemployed/Between Jobs
Industry: Entertainment
Message: message me
Website: visit my website
Member Since:
11/11/2003
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| My M20-2002 for sale!!
I'll setup some pics later, but for now, here's most of the details of the car as of today..
1974 BMW 2002
asking $12,000
Purchased in 2002 pretty much stock except for new paint, a huge muffler, and lowered onto the bumpstops with cut ST springs. I drove it with two versions of the M10 for 2 years and then decided to clean out and paint the engine bay. After the motor was out, I decided what the hell and did the M20 swap while I was at it. After attaining a second car as a daily driver, the '02 turned towards the direction of just a weekend/HPDE car. I built the motor as a 210hp N/A motor able to go to turbo once everything was sorted. As it sits, it is pretty much ready for the track, but I'm too chicken to beat it up and have to pay for repairs with a new baby on the way. It could be turned back into a street car with very little work and I have used it to commute when my daily car was in repair without a problem. it can be tame although a little loud. It will not, however, stand up to too much rain! the wipers are fixed right now, and the hood has two gaping holes. Ive driven it in the rain, but it needs a shitload of Rain-x!
I adjusted the seat mounting so the seat position is further back. It'd be hard for a shorter person to drive it without some kind of mod to the rails or mounting again but we could work something out to accommodate.
Engine:
1987 BMW M20 (325i) bored/stroked
stock head recut and line-honed
172deg I.E. regrind cam
oversized eccentrics
new valves, seals, guides, and springs
block bored, honed, and decked
Ross forged pistons 9.75:1-CR (I.E. spec)
Eta 81mm crank-honed
new crank and rod bearings
all magnafluxed
final displacement 2785cc
MSDS shorty headers
magnaflow 2.5" custom exhaust
about 5k miles on the whole thing
RX-7 oil cooler (easy to swap out if it's not your thing)
polished intake manifold and valve cover
then sanded for brushed look
cooling:
AFCO Scirocco aluminum radiator
AFCO aluminum expansion tank
new t-stat
12" Summit pusher fan (on all the time til fan control installed)
engine management/fuel:
Megasquirt-I running MSNS-extra w/spark
V2.2 board
relay board
fan-control circuit (not installed yet)
Innovative wide-band O2 sensor/controller
MSD-6A and Blaster-SS coil
IE plug wires/NGK plugs
timing is set conservatively (dyno time should yield ~15% more hp)
new OE 318IS fuel pump
dynoed 19lb injectors
Fram fuel filter
Drivetrain:
euro E21 323i 5spd OD transmission
Exedy clutch/pres. plate (stage1-spec to hopefully save the diff)
new clutch slave
12lb flywheel
shortened/balanced driveshaft
6-bolt guibo
3.91:1 LSD (loud output bearings)
new wheel bearings front/back
new solid poly diff mounts
front suspension:
325lb coils
shortened strut housings
IE rabbit bilstein inserts
GC adjustable perches
GC adjustable camber/castor plates
new OE balljoints
IE swaybar
all poly bushings
rear suspension:
IE stg II springs (325lb) -1coil cut
Bilstein sport dampers
19mm 'blue' swaybar
2dot OE spring pads
solid subframe mounts (flipped to correct camber)
curb weight: 2212 lbs w/half tank of gas
weight dist:53/47(f/r)
steering:
CR steering box
new center rod
new steering links
new ball joints
brakes:
front-
IE Volvo upgrade
new brembo rotors
Mintex sport pads
SS braided lines
new OE master cylinder
rear-
stock drums
new performance shoes
new cylinders
new drums
SS braided lines
Tilton prop valve (for future disc upgrade)
TEP battery brace (welded in)
interior:
Corbeau sport seats
Schroth harnesses
Autopower half cage
VDO instruments-
oil pres.
water temp
fuel level
batt V
tach (w/shift light)
speedo (w/digital sender)
Autometer fuel pres gauge (not hooked up)
Innovative analog AFR gauge
Sparco pedal covers
Personal wood steering wheel
NRG quick release
new trunk boards covered in vinyl
Optima redtop batt in trunk
floors patched and sealed. nomo rust.
crack-free dash
Exterior:
10-year old Malaga(ish) paint
Ebay H4 headlights
early bumpers
IE FRP hood (mod'd for cooling)
Zender trunk spoiler
shaved reflectors and lower mouldings
IE front airdam.
*i need to take new ext pics as Ive removed a bunch of stickers and some yellow headlight covers that were making me sick.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/double02/3611294987_2951f3e991-1.jpg[/IMG]
bad:
-leaks oil from rear main seal (even with new seals)
drips onto exhaust sometimes. few drips after parking.
*Ill be adding to this as I nitpick, but this is the top of my shitlist right now, and without a hoist at this time I just deal w/it.
just so you know:
no sound deadening=loud
Quick Ratio steering box=hard to steer at slow speeds
stroked M20=non green
no radio, heater, or A/C=no wife
1974=no smog
email me with ANY questions and/or concerns. even if you're not interested in buying, it may help this ad be more correct/effective.
there's stuff im forgetting buy I'm busy as hell right now and this list took me 3 days.
THANKS FOR READING,
-Charley
(seven one four)357-3212
cboy at operamail dot com
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| Coolant system plumbing is done finally.. didn't even waste too much silicone hose hehehe. Took me a few days to get the parts ordered, but they were shipped fast. RockAuto sent me a fuel pump without the wiring harness, so I had to solder the wires.. so after the AAA flatbed dropped the car back off at home, I found that the wiring failed! WTF. the pump was fine. So I resoldered them and used some different insulation and it works again, but I'm still not sure what went wrong on the previous wires. owell
The clear hose is just temporary until I find an overflow bottle and a place to mount it. I had to change the front hood pin location, so I took the opportunity to switch to captured torsion pins. Shitty thing is, that at about 50 mph, the thin IE hood starts lifting in the middle and gulping in more air.. might have to add a 5th pin. I really dont want to add extra glass the middle.
I added this adapter I found from moroso to tap into for the bleed line. Works perfect, it's a reducer and is tapped.. although it was meant to be a bottom tube drain. I saved the petcock. Oh.. and I had to make a trip to the pick-ur-junk for some BMW hose clamps..
and I forgot, i moved the intake air temp sensor from the throttle body to the back of the intake plenum. It was protruding into the worst spot on the intake, I don't know why I did that other than being lazy. I guess I do know.
from here:
to here:
I moved the MAP sensor vac input from here to just behind the butterfly.. a better spot I think.
and then I mounted this!
..always wanted one.
Oh, and the car still runs a little warm? but nothing like before. Now it'll level off @ 180deg and it'd probably take 20min idling to get to 200deg, but I'm gonna sum that up to poor idle tuning. Right now it idles @ ~1100rpm.
next time I'll be lowering this 4x4 a touch and doing a little idle tuning.
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| I forgot that we weighed the car..
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| Poor little 02 has been sitting in the garage for almost a year now waiting for a new cooling system and it's finally close to completion. It was hard to find a radiator in the scirrocco size but thx to Canadamatt, I found an AFCO unit that fit.. umm.. with a little massaging. It has a much thicker, double-row, aluminum core. I'm also adding an expansion tank that will feed into the H2O pump and plumb a bleed line to the top radiator hose. Hopefully, this will keep the air in the expansion tank and not in the hoses near the temp sensor.
First off, the core is so much thicker that I had to cut the two vertical hood hinge supports near the bottom and weld in reliefs so that the bottom of the rad could be moved away from the crank pulley. Since they don't really support much anymore, I drilled some holes in them to maybe help in air flow to the core. You can see the reliefs that I welded in below the second hole down.
Then I welded in some lower mounts out of box steel and flat stock. Readers have failed to make donations to my paypal account and therefore, I have no gas/regulator for my MIG. My welds look like crap because of you. I used some rubber isolation mounts here, but you can't really see them in the pic. I used Zero-Rust to seal.. I like it cuz it brushes on and I'm lazy but still want to party.
The top mounts (just comforting huggers really) were just cut, bend, drill, grind, paint, and apply weather stripping affairs.
..as you can see, I need to make new hood pinnings somehow. That'll leave two, cool, scar-like holes in my FRP hood but it'll allow me to move to captured-style hood pins which I should have done in the first place.
The bottom tube on the rad posed a problem since it was feeding directly into.. somewhere it shouldn't be. So, a great fabricator friend of mine waved his magic wand over it and viola! 90deg bend right out the gate! For this I am grateful, so go buy his shit! http://www.battleversion.com/
The expansion tank needs to be the high point of the system to collect air so I mounted it as high as possible without having the convenience of fillling it without removing the hood. I tapped out the bottom to take a larger elbow that way it doesn't take an hour to fill the system. No, that's not the hose I'm going to use for the bleed line.
Now, I'm just working on getting new plumbing ordered without contributing too much to the 'extras' bin. I'll be back.
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