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double02
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Country: United States
State: California
Metro: Orange County
Birthday: 3/29/1979
Gender: Male
Interests: taking things apart, cleaning them, putting them back together, searching for the ultimate wheels, drawing, p-shopping, using Acid, writing crap on websites that no one will visit, and storming the internet in a random direction.
Expertise: nerdery, replacing bushings, putting sparkplugs in wrong, building model cars, putting stickers on things, calling people at the wrong time, washing cars, mowing grass, attempting to fix various crap.. etc. etc..
Occupation: Unemployed/Between Jobs
Industry: Entertainment
Message: message me
Website: visit my website
Member Since:
11/11/2003
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| out cold.. sortaCoolant system plumbing is done finally.. didn't even waste too much silicone hose hehehe. Took me a few days to get the parts ordered, but they were shipped fast. RockAuto sent me a fuel pump without the wiring harness, so I had to solder the wires.. so after the AAA flatbed dropped the car back off at home, I found that the wiring failed! WTF. the pump was fine. So I resoldered them and used some different insulation and it works again, but I'm still not sure what went wrong on the previous wires. owell
The clear hose is just temporary until I find an overflow bottle and a place to mount it. I had to change the front hood pin location, so I took the opportunity to switch to captured torsion pins. Shitty thing is, that at about 50 mph, the thin IE hood starts lifting in the middle and gulping in more air.. might have to add a 5th pin. I really dont want to add extra glass the middle.
I added this adapter I found from moroso to tap into for the bleed line. Works perfect, it's a reducer and is tapped.. although it was meant to be a bottom tube drain. I saved the petcock. Oh.. and I had to make a trip to the pick-ur-junk for some BMW hose clamps..
and I forgot, i moved the intake air temp sensor from the throttle body to the back of the intake plenum. It was protruding into the worst spot on the intake, I don't know why I did that other than being lazy. I guess I do know.
from here:
to here:
I moved the MAP sensor vac input from here to just behind the butterfly.. a better spot I think.
and then I mounted this!
..always wanted one.
Oh, and the car still runs a little warm? but nothing like before. Now it'll level off @ 180deg and it'd probably take 20min idling to get to 200deg, but I'm gonna sum that up to poor idle tuning. Right now it idles @ ~1100rpm.
next time I'll be lowering this 4x4 a touch and doing a little idle tuning.
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| I forgot that we weighed the car..
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| Cool It NowPoor little 02 has been sitting in the garage for almost a year now waiting for a new cooling system and it's finally close to completion. It was hard to find a radiator in the scirrocco size but thx to Canadamatt, I found an AFCO unit that fit.. umm.. with a little massaging. It has a much thicker, double-row, aluminum core. I'm also adding an expansion tank that will feed into the H2O pump and plumb a bleed line to the top radiator hose. Hopefully, this will keep the air in the expansion tank and not in the hoses near the temp sensor.
First off, the core is so much thicker that I had to cut the two vertical hood hinge supports near the bottom and weld in reliefs so that the bottom of the rad could be moved away from the crank pulley. Since they don't really support much anymore, I drilled some holes in them to maybe help in air flow to the core. You can see the reliefs that I welded in below the second hole down.
Then I welded in some lower mounts out of box steel and flat stock. Readers have failed to make donations to my paypal account and therefore, I have no gas/regulator for my MIG. My welds look like crap because of you. I used some rubber isolation mounts here, but you can't really see them in the pic. I used Zero-Rust to seal.. I like it cuz it brushes on and I'm lazy but still want to party.
The top mounts (just comforting huggers really) were just cut, bend, drill, grind, paint, and apply weather stripping affairs.
..as you can see, I need to make new hood pinnings somehow. That'll leave two, cool, scar-like holes in my FRP hood but it'll allow me to move to captured-style hood pins which I should have done in the first place.
The bottom tube on the rad posed a problem since it was feeding directly into.. somewhere it shouldn't be. So, a great fabricator friend of mine waved his magic wand over it and viola! 90deg bend right out the gate! For this I am grateful, so go buy his shit! http://www.battleversion.com/
The expansion tank needs to be the high point of the system to collect air so I mounted it as high as possible without having the convenience of fillling it without removing the hood. I tapped out the bottom to take a larger elbow that way it doesn't take an hour to fill the system. No, that's not the hose I'm going to use for the bleed line.
Now, I'm just working on getting new plumbing ordered without contributing too much to the 'extras' bin. I'll be back.
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| More trim than Fillmore Slim All right! ok! yahh... so.. uh. long time, I know, but gettin to work on the '02 isn't exactly easy-bake-oven these days. So, I've been working on gathering the rest of the waistline trim needed and seeing how feasible it is to attatch a decent set on a small budget. Anyone who's unfortunate enough to have a degenerate or (like me) imaginable set of this trim probably knows what a set will set you back if you buy re-pops.. over $300 including clips. SO, if you're like me and have more time than money, I'm here to tell you.. it can be done for under $60 dammit! but there are downsides of course. like sore throats from aluminum dust inhalation and other minor health issues. 1. take a wide putty knife, pry bar, and small open end wrench set (can't recall if it's 6mm or 7mm but it's small) to your local Pick-and-Pullery. 2. Look for any year 2002. If you find none, return to step #1 until you do. 3. Remove as many trim pieces as you can find. make sure you remove any small nuts from behind the trim before using the putty knife to pry them off. they're real easy to bend. I kept track of which pieces I had using a box drawing on paper. (Don't forget the corner collars (the small joint pieces). You need a full set without cracks, tears, holes, anything worse than dents basically. I paid $15 all together for a set and I have doubles of a few pieces. 4. buy these tools. if you have an anvil or vise with a flat pad, i wouldnt waste the money on the small anvil. you wont be able to work the trim on the fingers of the anvil anyhow. round off the ends of a small chisel and round punch and smooth them as much as you can. the flat file is a must.. the removable tip hammer in the back, not so much. 
5. Clean the trim thoroughly and get to hammering out the dents. The most important thing to remember is that the aluminum is thin and stretches easily so tap a little at a time. You do not want to go too far and then have to tap from the other side. the sharpie and flat file come in hand here. Mark the dent from the outside, taparoo, then use the file length-wise, at a 45deg angle or so and go over the work area. the marker will show you the low spots. repeat, but keep the filing at a minimum for obvious reasons. 6. I used 120 grit sand paper and a foam pad to sand down the small imperfections. Use the light and marker to show you the way. 7. glass beads. I used our blastbox at work using glass beads to remove the factory anodizing/clearcoat. 8. I used the 120 grit sand paper again to bring the trim to a uniform luster. time consuming? hell yes. In my case I decided to stay @ 120 grit but you could work your way down to a polish with nothing but more paper and elbow grease. 9. Use a good quality clearcoat. I did not. 10. Attatch. This is where you can make or break the budget. I'm sure the stainless fastener kits out there are great, but I bought a set from I BavAuto and it includes everything you need for $35 and the parts are zinc/cad plated so they should last at least as long as it'll take me to fireball the car. viola! 
Sure, it's nots as shiny and cool as a new set, but with a good polishing and good clearcoat it'd be BETTER than new. The important thing here is that it all costed less than ONE new piece of new re-popped trim. | | |
| after dyno tuning and oil pan gasket replacement, project #1 (aka the 2002) will be up for sale. If you are painfully curious, or actually interested in taking on this project, feel free to contact me or leave your info in the comments section. I say 'project' because this car can always be made to be better, and those with fear need not apply. muahahahaha......ha.. also, this blog will continue with renewed enthusiasm and focused direction. if not on the topic of dismembering my E30 in the pursuit of the sweet MPG nectar, then on how to avoid creating entries in a blog. | | |
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